NY TIMES

If you’re even smarter, you’ve thought to make a reservation at Fish Market (Adalstraeti 12; 354-578-8877; www.fishmarket.is), which fills up quickly, even in these less affluent times. It spreads over two handsome floors and, most important, has a menu that lets you know you’re in Iceland. My companion and I tried smoked puffin, which had an appealing livery quality like that of many game birds. Grilled whale meat was even more compelling: it had the appearance, texture and heft of beef, but faintly saline nuances that suggested its source was the sea. As we drank frigidly cold, excellent martinis made with Icelandic vodka, we moved on to reindeer (predictably like venison), goose and Arctic char.

FRANK BRUNI
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